Front-Row Ag Frequently Asked Questions

Click on the questions below to reveal their respective answers

PART B already includes a wetting agent so you don't need to add an additional wetting agent.

Element chelated / Batch complexing and preservative .

The only products we recommend in addition to Front Row Ag is a Silicate in the form of silicic acid and optionally you can run a beneficial biological product, like UNLEASH - Otherwise there are no other products you "need" in addition to F.R.A. that we recommend.

The Front Row Ag feed charts are made for COCO medium. Giving the COCO a good charge for the first feeding, then run off for the second is recommended. Coco holds on to nutrients more than any other media so you want to put a lot of feed in at first to displace whatever salts are already bonded to the fiber. Then once those coco salts are displaced and the fibers are bonded to your nutrient salts, you can feed a lower EC to maintain the charge.

In ROCKWOOL, you would do the opposite. In SOIL, you would feed at about 1/2 strength, watch your plants and increase feed gradually as needed.

With Soil medium extra care must be taken to make sure your fertilizer feed is applied at rates that complements the unknown NPK value in the soil. We recommend Peat instead of soil for consistency. Finally, our feed charts work very well, but are a guide. If you have existing cultivar/system specific feed charts, you can match your existing weekly EC targets while keeping the proportions in our feed charts.

If you need help or have further questions about feed charts shoot a call to 844-420-NUTE - You can download our feed charts HERE

No, there are no ingredients used that are not labeled under the “derived from” section. There are a couple of micro-nutrients not on the guaranteed analysis because we do not have to report them due to their concentrations and they are proprietary in terms of formulation and relative quantities to other constituents.

Front-Row Ag does NOT use pre-blended micros and they are added individually. Front-Row uses a combination of the best existing chelates then proprietary complexing agents and sterics. Each cation is chelated with the best specific ones for those ions and many with multiple.

None, there is citric acid in Part B which is a complexing agent /, preservative and helps with mildews, molds, and general plant health as well as keeping drip lines clean. The Front Row Ag formulation is acidic in nature due to using the highest quality elements.




None. We recommend Silicic Acid if used (only available in liquid form). Inject in the first position before the pH and Part A or add to the reservoir first.

None, however Solstice Ag is overseeing trials of enzyme products at select commercial farms. When we find a value adding product we will distribute it

The citric acid in Part B which is a complexing agent/preservative and helps with mildews, molds, and general plant health as well as keeping drip lines clean. The Front Row Ag formulation is acidic in nature due to using the highest quality elements. Our formulation doesn’t form precipitates on its own when mixed with water quality for which it is designed ( i.e. soft water or hard water.) Front Row often times, but not guaranteed, helps to clear lines due to the solubility and no unneeded organics i.e. fulvic, humic, sugars, etc.

You’ll find we do deliver a considerable amount of P but then have much more Ca than most formulators. We feel confident based on field trials, case studies, water, soil, and visual analysis that we have effectively addressed calcium, magnesium, and sulfur specifically on the micro side and our P and K levels are very ideal relative to both N and the other micros. We also are very excited about our use of Boron and Molybdenum and how it relates to flower aesthetics, density, aroma, and quality.

Running Front Row Ag you will not need additional Cal-Mag, we specifically designed the formulation over 6 years on Coco Coir media – then moved to stone and rock-wool. This pertains to all situations. NO CAL MAG NEEDED!! If you see a Calcium or Magnesium difficiency then just bump up the Part A for Calcium and Part B for Magnesium.

If you are allowing for proper dry down and giving excessive flush ( i.e. 2x the water holding capacity, WHC) at every irrigation, you can skip the DAY 30 FLUSH altogether. The less leach provided, regardless of watering frequency & quality, the more a regular water flush is needed to lower ion specific build up and is best followed up by the same EC being fed with high leach at the next dry down.

We always recommend runoff at every feed, we water in coco the same as grodan or any media. We like to let the plant reach the point it is experiencing zero drought stress but the media is so dry the plant would if 15-30 more minutes would pass and provide minimum irrigation equal to 125% the water holding capacity (ideally >150%) - Keep in mind, we design facilities to direct stick clones to 3-gallons and transplant at 2.6 EC pH 6.3 and don’t water for sometimes 16 days and the next watering is at 2.2 - 2.3 EC and pH 6.1 and the following watering may be 7 - 10 days - every time giving 200% WHC (Water Holding Capacity)

RO is best and what we recommend, However water with an EC less than 1.99 will suffice.

Yes, you can use Phosphoric Acid if you need a pH down after the fertilizer is added to solution. Our fertilizer is acidic but sometimes based on the alkalinity of the start water it could require pH down. Sulfuric and Phosphoric are good choices if so.


If only using 1 mixing chamber, we’d recommend putting it between the pH and the Part A configured as shown below:

pH > Mix Chamber > Part A > Part B > Bloom

This assumes no silicate is used and there are no other additives. The ideal setup is as follows:

Silicate > Mix Chamber > pH Adjuster > Part A > Part B > Bloom > Mix Chamber > [pH,EC, & temp monitoring] > Organic Additive > Mix Chamber [flow meter] >

Silicate needs to go first if utilized and we recommend silicic acid based silicates. If you are using other amendments we should address them case by case, but most that are nearly 100% organic or are indeed 100% organic and add no charge should be added last and their effect on pH and EC ignored.

Just so you have it, here is a link to the Front Row Ag recommended stock concentrate mixing protocol sheet:

In order of highest to lowest recommended:

pH up -

Sulfuric acid
Phosphoric acid
Nitric Acid
Citric Acid

pH down -

Potassium carbonate
Potassium hydroxide

The fertilizer is made for recommended to be made at about 60 to 65% of the total solubility so they can increase it another 20 to 25% but they are going to have to mix it longer and add a little bit warmer of the temperature to get it all to go on solution quickly or just mixed it for a long time with a lot of agitation. If they have 6 or more in series they can mix the fertilizer as normal, and either make duplicate stock tanks and run two injectors for A, two injectors for B, and two injectors for BLOOM, setting each one to half of their target mL x gallon. I.E. target mL x gallon = 14, set A1 and A2 to 7 mL x gallon, and so forth. Alternatively they can make 3 stock tanks as normal, and have two injectors draw from one tank of each part. I.E - Stock tank A feeds injectors A1 and A1, and so forth.

Yes, we do, thank you for your interest in Front Row Ag.However, To get samples requires submission of a Solstice Commercial Grow Profile. We will send you an estimate and a cost x gallon breakdown, then, assuming your sample request is approved, we will ship out your samples to the address provided on your profile. Beware the grow profile form has a lot of questions so the form covers multiple territories, so you can skip anything that does not pertain to you. However, the questions we do need are noted with a red asterisk. The more detail you provide the higher the accuracy of the estimate. To get started, FOLLOW THIS LINK and fill out the contact form. You will be emailed information on Front-Row Ag as well as a link to our Grow Profile Cost x Gallon Questionnaire. Fill that out and type "SAMPLE REQUEST" into the NOTES section.

Dynamic feed starts off in flower delivering less PK relative to N and then by the end is delivering more PK than N (actually by day 20)

In terms of product branding, Dynamic delivers less Bloom relative to A and B and then more Bloom relative to A and B

Commercial or Even Ratios delivers equal amounts of A B and Bloom relative to one another start to finish (in liquid concentrate form - when straight out of the bag to reservoir the grams per gallon vary for the even dilution feed but the principle is the same) .

First, when referring to period or duration between irrigation events, we are referring to days not hours. This subject is more relatable to the differences seen with different pot sizes of plants in coir media versus rockwool.

i.e. drastic difference in time a 1-gallon requires to dry from transplant to the next irrigation event is about 5 – 7 days, but a direct stick, clone into a 3-gallon coir pot can take over 18-days to dry down before its next irrigation event and transplant.

Rockwool dries down in hours and typically is very high runoff/constant flow so you can run lower pH as long as the water is high in dissolved oxygen, right temperature (65°F to 70°F) and nutrient changed regularly. But even when we transplant clones it is about 3 – 5 days before they go on an automated cycle so we transplant at 6.0 – 6.1 and a lower EC than coir (around 1.8 – 2.0) because it is a small 6”x6”x6” cube.

During the very long dry down events, hydroponic media’s high cation exchange capacity (CEC) and our fertilizers natural acidic characteristics will continue to drive media pH lower as media dries and the plant uptakes readily available essential fertilizers. It is recommended for the most availability through these long periods to feed the initial solution at around 6.2 to 6.4 when the period between irrigation is greater than 12 – 14 days, if it is between 7 – 12 days closer to 6.1 to 6.2 and anything less between 5.9 and 6.1 (may go lower if shorter i.e. closer to 5.9).

This starts off offering higher availability of N-P-K at the higher pH around 6.3 and then maintains great N-P-K availability but much higher micronutrient availability as the pH approaches the lower 6 ranges and high 5 range.

An example is in trials, coir pots feed at 6.0 to 6.1 pH in direct, clone transplant to 3-gallon pot would be around 5.3 to 5.5 pH by the time runoff was taken at the first irrigation 16 to 18 days later. When the transplant feed was adjusted to 6.3 – 6.4 pH (EC maintained at 2.4 – 2.5), the runoff at day 16 through 18 was on average 5.6 – 5.9.

Separately, we recommend high runoff when feeding for a specific reason. And, it is recommended even more to have high runoff and increase it the greater the dry down is for related reasons.

Typical runoff, 50% to 100% of the water holding capacity of the media (accounting for the pot size) is recommended to ensure the old fertilizer cations and anions are displaced and adjusted to the ideal ratio for uptake. This is specifically because the rhizosphere doesn’t uptake ions at equal rates relative to one another but there is an ideal ratio relative to one another to maximize uptake. i.e. calcium is used at different rate or speed than nitrogen, and magnesium, and iron, and all the ions. Then, it is the same for all the ions relative to one another.

The longer the dry down, dryer the media is before the next irrigation, and the mediums CEC all are huge contributors to ensuring proper displacement of old ions. So, the longer the dry down and the more dry the media you push, use more runoff. Especially with media that has a high CEC like coir.

Injection location is the easier on to explain. You want to have the longest possible time before testing for the pH adjuster to homogenize and interact properly with the fertilizer. This will also give you the best opportunity for accurate readings. Concentrated pH adjuster meeting diluted fertilizer has a higher risk of precipitate than if the pH adjuster is diluted first than meets the fertilizer (just like silicate). So, diluting the pH adjuster in the #1 or #2 injection spot (based on silicate usage) is best so the pH is dilute before meeting fertilizer. We then recommend testing the pH right after the injector and at the end of the line before it hits the media. We then adjust the pH so what is coming out the emitter is what is desired, pH 5.8 through 6.3 basically, and track the pH at the beginning of the line for trending and comfort although it’ll be way different than at the end after the neutralizing happens. i.e. if using pH up as described the pH at the beginning of the line right after the injectors may read 6.7 pH but at the end of the line as it comes out read 6.1 pH because finally the acidic fertilizer is neutralized by the pH adjuster.

Then, in true organic production you are not monitoring or adjusting the pH of the fertilizer feed or concentrate i.e. compost teas, etc.. The approach in organic growing is intended to have a compromise of a stable pH in the soil and water that provides the best pH for plant growth and creating availability of fertilizer from the organics through decomposition. So in an essence, organics is a time release, pH neutral material that is released based on the availability of water, microbes, pH and existing charge. Or in simpler terms, we say organic products do not have a true pH. Yes they are acidic or alkaline but only in their inert unavailable form that changes drastically as the fertilizer is made free.

If growing organically, you need to monitor soil and water pH making adjustments based on runoff and saturated media testing but adjusting the tea or compost would have little to no change short term and long term because of the slow release of organics.

So….. full circle we say ignore the change in pH they cause because you are adjusting the pH for something that doesn’t even contribute to the feed and is inert at that moment giving a false reading.

Further, we ran growth tests and rooting in clone stages hundreds of times proving there is a negative effect adjusting for products like RootShield, Botanigard, etc. we say make the mix pH it and then add the biologics and ignore the pH change

If you have questions not answered here you can reach out directly by emailing with your question or calling 844-420-NUTE

If you are currently running Front-Row Ag and are seeing plant issues or have other tech related questions, click the Tech Help button in the main menu above or under Quick Links to the left at the bottom of this page and one of our staff will reach out and help you as soon as possible.